Category Archives: Herbs

Cilantro….Not Just for Salsa

Cilantro flowering

Mysterious Cilantro…or is it coriander?  Both!  Cilantro and coriander come from the same plant.  When the plant is cultivated for its pungent, aromatic leaves, it is called cilantro.  When is allowed to go to seed and cultivated for its citrus-flavored seeds, it is called coriander.  Two great spices all rolled up into one plant! 

Cilantro is an annual grown during the cooler times of the year.  Once temperatures start to steadily stay warm the plant will start to bolt.  In our case here in Southern Utah that can be anywhere from the end of March to the end of May.  I like to plant cilantro seed in September (zone 8) and use a light row cover through the coldest months of winter to keep it from getting ‘freezer burn’ and it will continue to grow.  This way we will have fresh cilantro all winter long.  I usually get a second planting in come mid-January.  This way when the fall sowing has become tired out, the next session is ready to go.  You can shade your cilantro to help keep it from bolting as early with some row cover, but it will bolt when it wants to bolt! 

Plant your seed 1/2 inch deep in well composted soil.  It will take 7-10 days to germinate at temperatures of 50-75 degrees.  I prefer planting from seed more than I do from a plant.  Plants will always bolt faster!  Plus you get a lot more bang for your buck with direct seed sowing.   Plant in full sun to part shade.  Cilantro is such a great crop, because it rarely has any pest or disease problems.  I don’t recommend that you fertilize much other then adding some compost, rock phosphate and greensand at the time of sowing the seed.  If you give cilantro too much nitrogen, it will reduce the pungent flavor.  You can sow seeds every two weeks during the spring to have an extended harvest.  If you live in a cool area, your season will last through the summer.  Lucky!  We are just to hot here to have fresh cilantro out in the garden when the tomatoes are ripe!  Keep cutting back and using the plant through the growing season.  By doing this it will also slow the bolting a bit.  Once your plant starts to send up seed stocks it’s time to keep an eye on it so you can collect seeds for coriander spice or replanting.  After the plant goes to seed and the seeds turn yellowish-brown, bunch the seed heads together, place upside down in a paper bag, then allow seeds to ripen until they drop into the bag.  Coriander seeds will stay viable for about 5 years.

Use cilantro leaves fresh in salads, salsa, marinades, stir-fries, rice, pasta, or vinegar and with fish and shellfish.  Add leaves to guacamole or to Chinese soups and Asian chicken dishes.  Try growing cilantro for micro greens.  Use coriander seed to flavor confections, bread, cakes biscuits and mexican dishes.  Don’t forget to garnish!

Here is a high-five for cilantro!   1 fistful of organic cilantro (of course you wouldn’t use anything else….Right?) a day for 10 days straight will flush your body of serious heavy metals that can accumulate in your body these days.  There is a compound in cilantro that mercury (and other heavy metals) binds to and then gets released through the urine as a natural chelation technique. The body will not function properly with heavy metals and cilantro is cheap, easy, safe and could be available right in your garden.  Another great reason to grow cilantro!  Okay.. Not enough to get you growing it?  Think about this;  Cilantro will also help promote healthy liver function, lower blood sugar, ward off urinary tract infections, aid digestion and it’s an anti-inflammatory plus so many other benefits.  Well you get the picture!  Cilantro is not just for salsa!

Lavender, A Must Have In The Garden

Gardeners have prized lavender for thousands of years.  Their usefulness and beauty made them vital in ancient Roman gardens, medieval monasteries, Elizabethan knots, english cottage gardens and shaker fields.  I love the way they look, the way they smell when I brush up against them when I walk by.  There are about 28 species of lavender.  The most commonly grown are English, Spanish and French.  I grow many English varieties because they do so well in our area.  French lavender is tender so I grow it as an annual or in pots so I can bring them into the greenhouse during the cold winter months.  Spanish varieties seems to struggle here, but I can’t seem to resist a few every year because the flower and growth habit is so different then the other cultivars.

lavender loves full sun and well-drained soil.  They can survive in partial shade, but they seem to get spindly.  The biggest killers of lavender plants are root-rotting diseases, which proliferate in high humidity and wet soil.  English lavender are especially susceptible.  If you live in a humid climate, don’t crowd lavender.  If one plant catches a disease, it is likely to move down the row until they are all gone.  You can increase drainage around lavender by planting in raised beds or in mounds.  Well-composted organic matter will also help to improve soil texture.  For real problem soils you can add cinders or chicken grit in the top 12 inches of soil.  lavender likes a soil pH of 6.5 to 7.5.  Lavender doesn’t require a lot of fertilizer, although I will feed a Well balanced fertilizer in the spring.  I use 2 pounds per 100 square feet.  Work into the soil surface several inches away from the main stem.  I don’t like to mulch my lavender.  It seems like if you try to amend the soil too much it will make the soil to rich and diseases are more abundant.  Don’t kill your lavender with kindness!  Rock gardens are a great place for lavender. 

How much water will depend on your soil, the climate, and the age of your plants.  Keep the soil moist, but not wet, only until the roots have established, which will take a year or more.  Established plants can survive very dry conditions, but they will be more attractive and productive if the soil doesn’t dry out too much between watering.  Make sure they get an inch of water every two to four weeks.  Overhead watering is fine in an arid climate like mine, but if you live in a humid area, drip irrigation would be ideal for watering. 

Lavender flowers are prized when they bloom.  The fragrant flowers only bloom for four to six weeks each year.  I start to harvest the flowers when they are in full color.  You can gather several long spikes and cut all at once for a quick harvest or you can cut each individually down to the first set of leaves for longer stems.  When cutting the flower spikes, I will prune  any dead out of the bush and trim up just a little.  The only other time I prune in is in the early spring, just before the new growth (not buds) begins.  This is just to shape it up, and clean the dead branches.  Never prune more than 1/3 of your lavender and never prune during a very cold spell.

All lavender can be propagated from stem cuttings.  You want non-flowering stems, 2-3 inches long.  Use a rooting hormone by dipping the freshly cut end into the hormone.  If using a powder make sure to tap off any excess powder and if you are using a liquid hormone, my preferred method, only let the stems soak for 10 seconds.  Place the cuttings into a sterile soil less mix.  I use a heating mat on the bottom during cold months.   Keep moist and out of direct sunlight till rooted.  

lavender are used in so many different ways.  Cut flowers, dried flower arrangements, cooking, potpourri, sachet and lavender wands.  I bundle the flowers and hang them upside down for  use in dried flower arrangements.  One of my favorite ways to “show-off” my lavender is making wands.  They are made by taking an odd number of fresh lavender (13 is a good number to start with for beginners) and tying off just below the blooms, bending the stems back over the flowers, and weaving ribbon around the stems.  The flowers hold their scent for years like this.  I like the english lavender best for these because they have the sweetest scent.

Cream Cheese with Herbs de Provence

1 lb cream cheese, 2-3 T half and half, 10 leaves of parsley minced, 4-5 marjoram sprigs minced, 4-5 sprigs summer savory minced, 4-5 fennel or dill sprigs minced, 2 t fresh lavender flowers, 2 garlic cloves crushed, 1/4 t sea salt, pinch of cayenne and 1 t herb or white vinegar.  Cream the cheese and half and half, add the rest of the ingredients.  Flavor improves after 2-3 days.  Cover tightly and store in refrigerator.  Use this spread on sandwiches, crackers or baked potatoes.

Well balanced fertilizer for lavender

Planting Companions

In nature, where plants grow without the ground being worked, there is always a mixture of plant types growing in an area that are happy in there habitat.  The type of plants living in an area depends on the soil type and climatic conditions .  Most plants that grow together in the wild are mutually beneficial in that they allow for maximum light utilization, moisture and soil conditions.  This is what we call companion planting.  Plants have a beneficial effect on different garden plants because of some peculiar characteristic of their growth, scent, or root formation and soil demands.  Some plants that have strong orders, including those with aromatic oils, play a role in determining just which insects visit the garden.  While some plants repel, they can also hinder the growth rate of other plants or otherwise adversely affect them.  I have seen good results and not so good.  Yes, tomatoes like carrots, but you do sacrifice a little bit in the size of your carrots due to the shading that tomatoes cause.  I don’t mind because I like tomatoes more and I like baby carrots better!  I have listed some things that grow well together. 

  • Basil: Tomatoes (improves growth and flavor)
  • Bean: Potatoes, carrots, cucumber, summer savory
  • Beets: Onions, kohlrabi
  • Borage: Tomatoes (improves flavor & growth, deters tomato worm, attracts bees) squash, strawberries
  • Carrots: Peas, lettuce, chives, onions, leeks, rosemary, sage, tomatoes
  • Chive: Radishes
  • Chervil:  Radishes (improves growth & flavor)
  • Dill: Cabbage (improves growth & health), carrots
  • Flax: Carrots & potatoes
  • Fennel: Most plants seem to dislike it. 
  • Garlic: Roses & raspberries (deters Japanese beetle), plant liberally throughout garden to deter pests
  • Horseradish:  Potatoes (deters potato beetle)
  • Hyssop: Cabbage (deters cabbage moths) grapes
  • Lemon Balm: Here and there in the garden
  • Marigold:  Keeps soil free of nematodes, discourages many insects. Plant freely in the garden.
  • Pea: Squash
  • Petunia: Protects beans, beneficial throughout the garden
  • Nasturtium: Deters aphids
  • Rosemary: Carrots, beans, cabbage, sage
  • Summer Savory: Beans, onions, deters bean beetles
  • Tansy: Plant under fruit trees, deters ants squash bugs
  • Thyme: Plant throughout the garden
  • Wormwood: As a border, keeps animals out of the garden
  • Yarrow: Plant along borders, near paths, enhances essential oils in production of herbs.

Not only do these plants improve the growing, flavor and overall health, they also give your garden interest and character.  Don’t forget to add to your garden journal which plants thrived and which, not so much.